Guide to Niort & Deux-Sèvres: The Gateway to France’s Green Venice

If you’re looking for a destination that balances medieval grit with tranquil nature, Niort in the Deux-Sèvres department is a strategic choice. Often called the “Gateway to Green Venice,” this city serves as the essential launchpad for the Marais Poitevin, France’s second-largest wetland.

Whether you are planning a stopover on your way to the Atlantic coast or a dedicated eco-escape, here is everything you need to plan your trip.

Niort: The “Mutual Capital” with a Medieval Heart

Located in the heart of Western France, Niort and the department of Deux-Sèvres represent a sophisticated blend of industrial economic power and serene, “slow-living” natural beauty. While often overlooked in favor of the nearby Atlantic coast, this region is a hidden gem for travelers seeking authentic French culture, medieval history, and one of Europe’s most unique wetlands.

 1. Niort: The Capital of the “Green Venice”

Niort is the administrative and economic hub of Deux-Sèvres. Historically a prosperous medieval port, it has evolved into the “Insurance Capital of France,” hosting the headquarters of major national mutual insurance companies (like MAAF, MAIF, and MACIF). This economic stability gives the city a polished, well-maintained feel with a high quality of life.

Must-See Landmarks in Niort

• The Donjon (Twin Keeps): This is Niort’s most iconic landmark. Built in the 12th century by Henry II and Richard the Lionheart, these twin Romanesque towers are among the best-preserved medieval keeps in France. Climbing to the roof terrace provides a panoramic view of the Sèvre Niortaise river.

• Les Halles (The Covered Market): A stunning 19th-century metal and glass structure designed by Simon Durant. It is the beating heart of the city, especially on Thursday and Saturday mornings when locals gather to buy regional specialties like goat cheese and Mogette beans.

• Port Boinot: Once an industrial tanning district, this area has been spectacularly revitalized into a cultural and green space along the waterfront. It serves as the gateway to the Marais Poitevin.

• Musée Bernard d’Agesci: Housed in a former girls’ school, this multidisciplinary museum is a surprise for art lovers. It features fine arts, natural history, and a fascinating conservatory of teaching history.

2. Le Marais Poitevin (The Green Venice)

Just a few kilometers west of Niort begins the Marais Poitevin Regional Nature Park. This is France’s second-largest wetland, nicknamed “The Green Venice” due to its vast network of emerald-colored canals shaded by ash and poplar trees.

• The Experience: The primary way to explore is by “plate” (a traditional flat-bottomed boat) steered with a paddle or pole. You can hire a guide to tell local legends—like the “Fire on the Water” phenomenon—or rent your own canoe for a peaceful, self-guided trip.

• Coulon: Regularly cited as one of the “Plus Beaux Villages de France” (Most Beautiful Villages), Coulon is the capital of the marshes. It features whitewashed houses with traditional colored shutters and plenty of waterfront cafes.

• Wildlife: The marsh is home to over 250 species of birds, as well as the elusive European otter and various species of freshwater eels.

 3. Beyond Niort: The Treasures of Deux-Sèvres

The department of Deux-Sèvres (literally “Two Sèvres,” named after the two rivers that rise here) is characterized by rolling countryside, Romanesque architecture, and quiet medieval towns.

• Melle: Famous for its three 11th-century Romanesque churches and its Silver Mines, which are the oldest in Europe open to the public. The mines were used by the Frankish kings to mint coins.

• Parthenay: A medieval fortress town known for its gatehouse (Porte Saint-Jacques) and its role as a key stop on the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela.

• Tumulus de Bougon: For history buffs, this site contains some of the world’s oldest megalithic funerary architecture (dating back to 4700 BC), pre-dating the Pyramids of Giza.

• Zoodyssée: Located in the Chizé forest, this specialized zoo focuses on European wildlife, offering a “safari” through the local fauna of the continent.

 4. Gastronomy: Flavors of the Poitou

The food in Deux-Sèvres is rustic, high-quality, and deeply tied to the land.

• Angelica (Angélique de Niort): This aromatic plant is the city’s specialty. It is candied, used in liqueurs, or even incorporated into chocolates.

• Tourteau Fromager: A unique cake made with fresh goat cheese, recognizable by its deliberate burnt black crust and incredibly fluffy white center.

• Chabichou du Poitou: A world-class goat cheese with an AOC (protected designation) status.

• Mogettes: Creamy white beans often served with local ham or on toast with garlic butter.

 5. Practical Logistics

• Getting There: Niort is exceptionally well-connected. By TGV (High-Speed Train), it is only 2 hours and 15 minutes from Paris Montparnasse.

• Proximity: It is the perfect base for exploring Western France. You are only 1 hour from the beaches of La Rochelle, 1 hour from Futuroscope in Poitiers, and 1 hour and 15 minutes from the world-famous Puy du Fou theme park.

• The Lifestyle: The region is known for one of the lowest unemployment rates in France and a very affordable real estate market, making it popular for both retirees and digital nomads looking for a “hidden gem” location.