Avignon is Provence’s tactical headquarters. It is a city defined by its 14th-century papal occupancy, its stubborn medieval walls, and the temperamental Rhône river.
If you are here for the famous bridge, stay for the backstreets of the 84000 district. Most travelers use it as a base to reach St Rémy or Gordes, but Avignon demands at least 48 hours of your time before you head into the lavender fields. Don’t just pass through the TGV station; get behind the ramparts.
A Timeline of Power: When Avignon Became French
Avignon wasn’t always a part of France. That’s a common misconception. For centuries, this was Papal territory, a sovereign enclave that thumbed its nose at the French crown. The city’s timeline is dominated by the “Babylonian Captivity” when seven successive popes chose the Rhône over the Tiber.
-
1309: Pope Clement V moves the papacy to Avignon, fleeing the chaos of Rome.
-
1348: Pope Clement VI actually buys the city from Queen Joanna I of Naples.
-
1377: The papacy moves back to Rome, but Avignon remains under papal control for another four centuries.
-
1791: During the heat of the French Revolution, the city is finally annexed and officially becomes part of France.
-
1995: UNESCO recognizes the historic center, including the Palais des Papes and the bridge.
The history here isn’t just in books. You feel it in the limestone. On my last walk through the Place de l’Horloge, I noticed how the café culture sits right on top of Roman ruins. It’s a layering of eras. The mistral wind—that fierce, cold blast from the north—still howls through the same narrow alleys that medieval guards once patrolled.
Comparing Avignon to Neighboring Provence Hubs
| Feature | Avignon | St Rémy de Provence | Aix-en-Provence |
| Vibe | Medieval, Urban, Historical | Chic, Village-like, Artistic | Bourgeois, Fountains, Student-heavy |
| Transport Hub | Excellent (TGV & Regional) | Limited (Bus/Car only) | Good (TGV is 15km out) |
| Best For | History & Festivals | Van Gogh fans & Markets | Shopping & Architecture |
The River and the Bridge: Avignon Sur Le Pont
The Rhône river defines Avignon. It is a wide, muscular waterway that historically brought wealth and invaders. Then there is the bridge—the Pont Saint-Bénézet. You likely know the song, but the reality is more haunting. Only four of the original twenty-two arches remain. It juts out into the river, a stone limb that simply stops.
Walking out onto the bridge is essential. You’ll pay a few Euros, but the view back toward the Rocher des Doms and the Palais des Papes is unparalleled. The river air here smells of silt and distant mountains. It’s a sharp contrast to the scent of roasted garlic and lavender that hangs in the city’s old town.
Expert Field Note: The “Other” Side of the River
Most tourists stay within the walls. Huge mistake. Cross the bridge (the modern one, the Edouard Daladier) to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. It was the “suburb of the Cardinals.” You get the best views of the Avignon skyline without the crowds, and the Abbaye Saint-André has gardens that put the city parks to shame.
Navigating the Old Town: Walls and Postcodes
Avignon’s center is contained within 4.3 kilometers of remarkably intact ramparts. Inside is the 84000 postcode, a labyrinth of one-way streets and hidden squares.
The Place de l’Horloge is the social heart, but it’s often a tourist trap. We at SeaFrance Holidays recommend drifting toward the Rue des Teinturiers. It follows a small canal with ancient waterwheels. This is the real Avignon. It’s shaded, mossy, and quiet.
Essential Avignon Transport Links
| Destination | Travel Method | Typical Duration |
| Avignon to St Rémy | Bus (Line 707) | 45 Minutes |
| Avignon to Gordes | Car / Private Tour | 50 Minutes |
| Avignon to Pont du Gard | Bus (Line 115) | 40 Minutes |
| Avignon to Arles | TER Train | 18 Minutes |
The Van Gogh Connection: Myth vs. Location
Many visitors arrive searching for the “Van Gogh Avignon Cafe.” Let’s set the record straight: Vincent van Gogh never lived in Avignon. His famous yellow café and the starry nights were captured in Arles, about 20 minutes south by train.
However, Avignon is the best place to start a Van Gogh pilgrimage. From the Avignon centre station, you can reach St Rémy de Provence, where he stayed at the Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum. You can see the landscapes that inspired his final, frenetic works. The light in the Vaucluse department has a specific, golden quality that explains why the impressionists lost their minds here.
Practicalities: Breakfast, Pools, and Airports
If you are flying in, Avignon Airport (AVN) is tiny and mainly handles seasonal or private flights. Most travelers arrive via the Avignon TGV station.
Pro-Tip: There are two train stations. Avignon TGV is outside the city. Avignon Centre is across from the walls. A shuttle train called “The Virgule” connects them in five minutes. Don’t pay for a taxi between the two.
For breakfast, skip the hotel buffet. Go to Les Halles, the covered market with the massive green wall. Find a small counter, order a café allongé and a croissant, and watch the chefs from the city’s top restaurants buy their produce. It’s the best “Culture Trip” experience you can have for under five Euros.
Looking for a pool? Avignon gets hot. Brutally hot. Many hotels within the walls don’t have space for a pool. If a swim is non-negotiable, look at hotels on the Île de la Barthelasse, the large island in the middle of the Rhône.
Expert Field Note: The July Festival
If you visit in July, the city transforms into a giant theater. The Festival d’Avignon is world-famous. Every doorway is a stage. But there’s a catch: you must book your accommodation six months in advance. If you hate crowds, avoid July at all costs. The population triples, and the narrow streets become bottlenecks of “off-festival” performers.
Day Trips: From Pont du Gard to the Camargue
Avignon is the ultimate springboard. Within an hour, you can be in the rugged Luberon or the marshes of the Camargue.
-
Avignon to Pont du Gard: This Roman aqueduct is a feat of ancient engineering. Go late in the afternoon when the tour buses leave and the stone glows orange.
-
Avignon to St Rémy de Provence: Perfect for Wednesday market days. It’s the quintessential Provence town.
-
Avignon to Gordes: Often cited as the most beautiful village in France. It’s a stone citadel clinging to a cliff.
-
Avignon to Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Just 15km north. Some of the world’s most famous red wines are produced here in soil covered by large, heat-retaining pebbles called galets.
How to Plan a Perfect 3-Day Avignon Base
-
Secure your transport: Use the Avignon Centre station for local trips to Arles or Orange, and rent a car only for the days you plan to visit Gordes or Roussillon.
-
Stay within the walls (mostly): Look for boutiques near the Palais des Papes for history, or near Rue de la République for convenience.
-
Master the “Grand Palace” entry: Buy a combined ticket for the Palais des Papes and the Bridge (Pont d’Avignon) to save around 20%.
-
Time your meals: Unlike Paris, many Avignon kitchens close strictly at 2:00 PM for lunch and 9:30 PM for dinner.
-
Pack for the Mistral: Even in summer, a windbreaker is vital. That wind can drop the perceived temperature by 10 degrees in an hour.
FAQ: Navigating the City of Popes
What is Avignon famous for?
It is best known for the Palais des Papes (the largest Gothic palace in the world) and the Pont d’Avignon, the bridge that inspired the famous children’s song.
How do I get from Avignon airport to the city centre?
The airport is about 8km away. A taxi is the most reliable method, though a local bus service (Orizo) runs nearby. Most international travelers use Marseille (MRS) and take the train.
Is Avignon in Italy?
No. While it was once under papal control (associated with Rome), it is firmly in the South of France in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region.
Can you walk the Avignon walls?
You can walk along parts of them, and you can certainly walk the entire perimeter (about 4km) on the sidewalk outside or inside the ramparts.
Is Avignon a good base for Provence?
It is arguably the best base if you don’t want to drive every day. The rail and bus connections to Arles, Nîmes, and Orange are excellent.
What is the best breakfast in Avignon?
Check out the stalls at Les Halles market or “L’Explo” for a more modern, craft-focused start to your day.
How long does it take to see the Palais des Papes?
Allow at least two to three hours. The “HistoPad” (a tablet provided with entry) uses augmented reality to show you how the rooms looked in the 14th century.
Is there a Van Gogh cafe in Avignon?
No. The “Van Gogh Cafe” is in Arles. However, many tour companies in Avignon offer day trips to his actual haunts in St Rémy and Arles.
What is the “84000” in Avignon?
That is the primary postcode for the city center. When booking hotels, ensure they are in 84000 if you want to be within walking distance of the main sites.
Can you take a boat on the Avignon river?
Yes. There are river cruises that depart near the bridge, and a free ferry (Navette Fluviale) that takes you across to the Île de la Barthelasse.
Is Avignon safe at night?
The tourist center is generally very safe. Like any city, the areas around the main train station can feel a bit “edgy” late at night, but common sense prevails.
When did Avignon become part of France?
It was officially annexed in 1791 during the French Revolution, ending centuries of papal rule.
Expert Field Note: The Rick Steves Effect
You’ll see plenty of people clutching blue guidebooks. While those recommendations are solid, Avignon’s best gems are the ones not listed. Try the small art galleries in the Quartier de la Balance. On my last visit, I found a ceramicist there whose work was half the price of the shops in St Paul de Vence.
